Plant Four Bulbs and Tubers in March for Continuous Garden Colour

Many amateur gardeners are surprised by the same pattern each year: daffodils and tulips shine first, then very little happens for a long time. Borders look bare and window boxes drab until roses and summer flowers finally get going. By planting four carefully selected bulbous and tuberous plants in March, you can substantially shorten this gap in colour – and keep the garden flowering almost continuously.

Why March matters so much in the bulb calendar

Spring-flowering plants such as crocuses, daffodils and tulips have been in the ground since autumn. They flower early, use up their stored energy and then quickly fade away. If no summer bulbs are ready to take over at that point, there can be a gap lasting several weeks.

From March onwards, the timing is ideal: the hardest frosts have usually passed, the soil is beginning to warm and excess wetness is slowly receding. This is precisely when most summer-flowering plants grown from tubers or bulbs begin their growth – provided they are planted in the ground, or started in pots, in good time.

“March is the key moment: those who plant now can enjoy flowers from June – those who wait will be looking at empty borders until July.”

Starting only in late April or May pushes many flowering periods noticeably later. At the beginning of the warmer season, the garden can seem surprisingly empty, even though the weather is crying out for colour.

The four plants that should go into the ground now

Creating a garden without a lull does not require complicated planting schemes. Four groups are enough to connect spring, early summer and high summer almost seamlessly:

• Dahlias – reliable flowering from June into autumn
• Begonias – colour-packed plants for shade and partial shade
• Lilies – elegant plants that add scent and structure
• Peonies – an investment for the years ahead

All four offer one clear advantage: taking care of them in March brings their flowering season forward and fills the otherwise bleak period after the spring bulbs.

Dahlias in March: the fast track to early summer flowers

Dahlias are regarded as tireless bloomers, but they need time to develop strong stems and flower buds. Planting the tubers straight into a border only in May wastes valuable weeks.

How to give dahlias an early start

The answer is to start the tubers in pots as early as March, somewhere protected but bright.

• Fill a large pot or container with loose, low-nutrient compost.
• Place the dahlia tuber horizontally, with the buds or eyes facing upwards.
• Cover it only lightly with compost, then water sparingly.
• Keep it somewhere bright and frost-free, such as by a basement window, in a hallway or in an unheated conservatory.

Once the shoots are 10–15 centimetres tall and there is no longer a risk of frost, move the plants into a border or a large container on the patio or balcony.

“Dahlias started in pots in March often flower as early as June – tubers planted directly into cold soil can be almost a month later.”

Whether pompon, cactus-flowered or single varieties, dahlias bring bold colour to traditional cottage gardens, contemporary gravel beds and even large containers. Regularly removing spent flowerheads encourages fresh buds right into autumn.

Begonias: the secret weapon for north-facing balconies and shady gardens

Not every part of a garden receives plenty of sun. Many gardeners have to contend with shady corners beside the house, north-facing balconies or dark courtyards. This is exactly where begonias excel.

Why begonias need a head start in March

Begonias grow from tuber-like storage organs. In March, these should be placed shallowly in trays or pots:

• Use light, humus-rich compost that drains well but remains consistently slightly moist.
• Position the tubers with their hollow side facing upwards and cover them only thinly.
• Choose a bright, frost-free spot away from harsh direct midday sun.

Gardeners who begin now will have densely leafy plants by June, producing fresh flowers continuously. Begonias cope with gentle morning sun and partial shade, but they are particularly at home in darker positions.

Even watering and protection from prolonged waterlogging are essential. The tubers can be lifted in autumn, stored somewhere dry and cool, and started again the following March – a clear advantage for anyone who would rather not buy new plants every year.

Lilies: fragrant pillars that fill the gaps

Lilies enhance borders visually by adding both height and fragrance. They are ideal for bridging the period between spring bulbs and later-flowering perennials.

Planting lily bulbs at the right depth

In March, plant lily bulbs at a depth two to three times their own height. The site should be free-draining and slightly humus-rich, neither bone-dry nor waterlogged.

Aspect	Recommendation for lilies
Position	Sun to partial shade, in an airy site
Planting depth	2–3 × bulb height
Soil	Loose, well-drained and not waterlogged
Start of flowering	Depending on the variety, from May to high summer

A well-chosen mix of varieties extends the flowering window: early types for May and June, followed by later-flowering ones for July and August. This is when many gardens have their biggest gap, and lilies fill it with tall, scented flower spikes.

Planting peonies in March: work for the garden of the future

Peonies, often simply called paeonies, are among the longest-lived perennials in an ornamental garden. Once established in a suitable position, they may remain there for decades.

Anyone planting new root divisions or young plants in March will need patience: full, heavy flowers often appear in large numbers only after two to three years. In return, peonies reward that wait with impressive abundance and, often, a delicate fragrance.

“Peonies are not a quick project, but a lasting investment in recurring spring splendour – those who plant now will enjoy them for many years.”

They tolerate most soils as long as the ground is not waterlogged. Full sun to light partial shade is most suitable. One important point: do not plant peonies too deeply, or they may refuse to flower. The buds on root divisions should sit only a few centimetres beneath the surface.

How the four plants close the flowering gap together

Using dahlias, begonias, lilies and peonies in a considered way creates a kind of flowering timeline:

• Spring: daffodils, tulips and other early flowers take centre stage.
• Late spring: the first lilies and some peony flowers take over.
• Early summer: pre-started dahlias and begonias fill the borders, while lilies reach their peak.
• High summer to autumn: dahlias and begonias keep the display of colour going.

The result is a smooth transition rather than a grey void between spring brilliance and summer abundance. Smaller gardens benefit especially, as every flowerless week is more noticeable there.

Practical advice: choosing positions, risks and care mistakes

Those planting in March should be aware of a few potential pitfalls. Late frosts can damage newly emerging dahlias and begonias. If sub-zero temperatures are forecast, horticultural fleece, an upturned crate or temporarily bringing pots indoors can help.

Waterlogging is another common issue: loosen heavy soil first and, where necessary, improve it with sand or fine grit. Bulbs and tubers rot quickly if they remain in standing water for weeks. Lilies are particularly sensitive to this.

Successful border combinations come from mixing heights and flowering times: use lilies as vertical accents, shorter begonias at the front and dahlias as a block of colour behind them. Peonies are best given a permanent position where they can remain undisturbed.

If you are unsure, start with containers. Dahlias, begonias and many lilies thrive in them. This makes it easy to move them around, fill gaps or try them out in suddenly sunny spots. On balconies and patios in particular, this quickly creates small yet highly effective islands of colour.