Monty Don: Prune These 5 Plants in March for More Flowers

really bloom in spring.

Between the grim weather and the first mild days, many amateur gardeners ask themselves the same question: prune now or wait a little longer? British gardening expert Monty Don is clear that five very common ornamental plants need a targeted cut in March – otherwise, their display of spring and summer flowers will fall well short of expectations.

Why March is so important in the ornamental garden

As daylight hours increase and temperatures rise, most shrubs and perennials begin their new season. During this transition, plant tissue responds particularly well to pruning.

Pruning at this point brings several benefits at once:

• old, diseased or frost-damaged shoots are removed, so they no longer drain the plant's energy
• more light and air can reach the centre of the shrub, making fungal diseases less likely
• energy is directed into a smaller number of strong new shoots rather than a tangle of weak branches
• flowers will later appear at eye level instead of as little “tufts” right at the top

Monty Don focuses on woody plants that flower on the current year's growth – in other words, on shoots produced during spring. These include many roses, butterfly bush (Buddleja), late-flowering clematis, Lavatera and certain types of hydrangea.

“A short, decisive cut in March can mean weeks of extra flowering – or a rather lacklustre-looking garden.”

Monty Don's one rule for pruning

The television gardener sums up his pruning approach remarkably simply: essentially, there is only one rule – “always prune to something”.

In practice, this means every cut should end just above a visible bud or side shoot, never in the middle of dead wood. This directs the plant's energy precisely to that point, encouraging vigorous growth and abundant flowers.

If blunt stubs are left behind, they often die back, begin to rot and can attract pathogens. Not only does this look untidy, it also weakens the entire shrub.

Monty Don also advises patience. In areas prone to late frosts, gardeners should avoid starting too early in February. If fresh, soft shoots emerge after a mild spell, just a few degrees below zero can turn them black overnight. March is usually the better window, as severe cold snaps are less common.

The five most important plants to prune in March

1. Roses – a classic choice for hard pruning

Roses appear on almost every late-winter pruning list. Experts recommend cutting bedding and shrub roses back by around one-third to one-half in March. The key points are:

• cut to an outward-facing bud so that the crown opens up
• remove all dead, thin or crossing shoots completely
• for climbing roses, shorten side shoots to a few buds while retaining the main stems as the framework

This creates an open structure that helps prevent fungal infection and brings flowers outwards rather than hiding them in dense growth at the centre.

2. Late-flowering clematis – cut back to eye level

Group 3 clematis, including many summer-flowering and viticella varieties, reward a hard March prune with flowers along all of their new growth. The basic rule is:

• shorten every shoot to strong, clearly visible buds low down on the plant
• remove old brown climbing remnants so that light reaches the base
• roughly separate the shoots to stop the plant becoming tangled in itself

Those who hesitate and only trim the tips risk a clematis that flowers in summer solely at the top of a trellis or in a tree canopy – far from view.

3. Butterfly bush (Buddleja) – cut back firmly for clouds of flowers

Butterfly bush is one of the woody plants that flower on new wood. That is why you can be bold with the secateurs. A low, sturdy framework of a few strong main shoots is sufficient; everything above it should be cut back substantially in March.

The result is a densely branched shrub covered in flower panicles, rather than a few metre-high stems with blooms only at their tips – a magnet for butterflies, bees and other insects.

4. Lavatera and fuchsias – maintain shape and remove frost damage

Lavatera, or tree mallow, tends to become woody quickly and lose its shape. Cutting it back firmly to a stable framework just above young buds keeps the plant compact and free-flowering.

Experts recommend rather more patience with fuchsias. First, wait until it is clearly visible where fresh shoots are appearing. Then:

• remove old grey-brown shoots that appear lifeless completely
• prune back to strong green buds
• for hardy fuchsias, cutting back to around 10 centimetres above ground level is often enough

This encourages fuchsias to develop dense new growth, making them look noticeably fresher and more floriferous in summer.

5. Panicle and smooth hydrangeas – harder pruning for larger flowers

Hydrangea paniculata, or panicle hydrangea, and Hydrangea arborescens, including the well-known smooth hydrangea ‘Annabelle’, flower on the current year's growth. They can therefore cope with a clear corrective prune in March.

Type	March pruning	Expected effect
Panicle hydrangea	Remove old flower heads and shorten shoots to one pair of buds	An even shape, with many sturdy new shoots carrying large panicles
Smooth hydrangea	Cut back hard, often fairly close to ground level	Strong fresh shoots and abundant “ball” flowers

If you prune too cautiously here, you may get plenty of shoots, but the flower heads are often smaller and less impressive.

Tools, hygiene and checking the weather

For March pruning to genuinely benefit plants, it is not only the location of the cut that matters, but also how it is made. Sharp, clean bypass secateurs cut like scissors rather than crushing the wood, leaving smooth wounds that heal faster.

Many professionals wipe the blades with alcohol or hot water between plants, especially when moving from a diseased specimen to a healthy one. This reduces the risk of fungi and bacteria spreading from shrub to shrub.

It is also worth checking the forecast. Ideally, the main prune should be carried out during a frost-free spell, with daytime temperatures clearly above freezing. Cuts will then dry quickly, while emerging buds will not immediately be damaged by frost again.

Making the most of the effect in your own garden

If you are unsure how far back to cut, take a gradual approach: first remove dead and diseased wood, then slowly work towards the desired height. Taking a photograph of the shrub before and after pruning can help you decide whether to be bolder or more cautious the following year.

It is also worthwhile spreading a thin layer of compost around the root area afterwards. This gives plants a nutrient boost that supports the formation of new shoots. Shrubs that have been cut back hard often respond especially well to this care with vigorous growth.

Those who follow Monty Don's simple rule to “prune to a bud”, mark the five plants listed above in the calendar and spend one or two hours on the task in March will often notice a clear difference as early as the next season: fewer bare frameworks, fewer weak shoots – and far more flowers that truly catch the eye.