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Plant ground covers in March to stop weeds naturally

Person planting a small green seedling in soil surrounded by blue and white flowering plants in a garden.

Rather than pulling thistles, chickweed and dandelions from beds every weekend, you can plant the area thoughtfully once and then largely leave it alone. The key is a living ground-cover carpet. Carefully chosen perennials fill gaps in a bed so densely that unwanted weeds barely get a chance to establish themselves. March is the ideal time to begin.

Why weeds keep returning

Many gardeners tackle the problem from the wrong end: they pull out what is visible, then wonder why fresh green clumps appear after every spell of rain. The cause lies in the soil itself.

Beneath the surface is an enormous “seed bank”. Seeds from wild plants accumulate year after year and can wait for many years for the right trigger: light and moisture. As soon as bare soil is exposed, this reserve supply springs into action.

“Every deeper cut with a spade or hoe brings new layers of seeds to the surface – and with them the next wave of weeds.”

Anyone who digs over the soil vigorously whenever weeds appear is therefore unintentionally creating next season’s problems. Specialists recommend a different approach:

  • Work shallowly: Loosen only the top layer rather than digging deeply.
  • Skim off seed weeds: Simply cut annual plants such as chickweed just above ground level, instead of pulling out large sections of soil.
  • Remove root weeds thoroughly: For dandelions, thistles or burdock, use a narrow tool to dig down carefully and remove as much of the root as possible – ideally when the ground is moist.

Woody seedlings of shrubs and trees are particularly deceptive. If they are left “for later”, they will require considerably more effort and deeper digging to remove later on – reopening fresh opportunities for weed seeds in the process.

Living mulch: perennials as natural weed protection

A more sustainable strategy begins much earlier: do not allow areas to remain bare in the first place. Instead, fill beds with robust perennials that cover the ground like a carpet. Garden experts call this “living mulch” or “living ground cover”.

These plants work for the gardener around the clock:

  • They shade the soil, denying weed seeds the light they need.
  • They retain moisture in the ground and reduce watering requirements.
  • Their roots support soil life and help prevent erosion.
  • Many also provide food for bees and other insects.

“Planting ground-cover perennials replaces laborious weeding with a colourful cushion of flowers – often for many years.”

Brunnera & Co.: perennials that take over the ground in spring

One perennial consistently stands out among ground covers: Brunnera macrophylla, commonly known in the UK as Siberian bugloss. Many professionals consider it one of the best ground covers for spring.

The plant produces large, heart-shaped leaves, topped with delicate clouds of sky-blue flowers. They closely resemble classic forget-me-nots, but are longer-lasting and more luxuriant. In favourable conditions, Brunnera often flowers from mid-March through to May.

Its benefits include:

  • very long-lived and hardy
  • spreads moderately but reliably
  • ideal for partial shade to full shade
  • combines well with bulbs such as crocuses or daffodils

Under trees or along house walls, it creates a dense blue carpet of flowers beneath which weeds can barely survive.

Further suitable ground covers for March

For a garden to become genuinely low-maintenance, it is worth mixing several perennial varieties. This keeps planted areas lively from spring through to autumn. Proven choices include:

Plant Position Special feature
Brunnera macrophylla (Siberian bugloss) Partial shade, shade Spring-flowering, large leaves, dense cover
Hardy geranium varieties Sun to partial shade Long flowering period, fills gaps quickly
Moss phlox Plenty of sun Low flower carpet, ideal for bed edges
Stonecrop varieties (Sedum) Dry, full sun Manages with little water, insect-friendly

The deciding factor is always that the chosen species must suit the site. Putting a shade perennial in blazing midday sun causes stress – and stressed plants create gaps that weeds can move into.

How to plant ground covers in March

The living flower carpet can be started as soon as the soil has dried out enough to walk on in March. Preparation then follows a few simple but important steps:

  • Carry out one final thorough weed: Make use of moist soil, carefully dig out root weeds and remove annual weeds shallowly.
  • Loosen the surface only: Use a cultivator or grubber to roughen the top two to three centimetres without digging deeply.
  • Incorporate compost: A thin layer of mature compost improves soil structure and supplies initial nutrients.
  • Plant closely together: Set perennials close enough that their leaves will touch by the second year at the latest.
  • Water in: Water thoroughly after planting so the roots make good contact with the soil.

“During the first year, the new carpet needs a little attention – some watering and targeted removal of the few weeds that still get through. Afterwards, the planting largely takes care of itself.”

What to consider when choosing ground covers

As appealing as an almost maintenance-free garden may sound, a few points need attention to ensure the plan does not backfire.

  • Check the growth habit: Some ground covers spread vigorously and can overwhelm weaker neighbouring plants. Read the plant description or ask at a specialist nursery.
  • Combine carefully with woody plants: Beneath shallow-rooted shrubs or mature trees, competition for water and nutrients is greater. Choose especially robust varieties for these areas.
  • Adjust watering routines: Dense planting needs more water initially, but usually far less later on than open soil.
  • Plan the flowering sequence: By mixing different species, you can maintain colourful areas from early spring until autumn.

Practical examples from everyday gardening

A typical situation is a perennial border with roses in the middle and bare patches between them. Many people use bark mulch here. While it suppresses some wild plants, it becomes very hot in summer and gradually decomposes without creating life of its own.

Planting low-growing hardy geranium varieties instead creates a living, flowering surface that keeps the soil cool, attracts bees and reduces maintenance. The same applies to areas in front of hedges or beneath fruit trees, where the hoe has previously been a constant visitor.

Another example is a gravel strip in a front garden. Here, drought-tolerant Sedum varieties, creeping thyme and moss phlox can form a resilient carpet that copes easily with summer heat while leaving weeds no gaps to exploit.

Risks, benefits and useful combinations

Every intervention in the garden has side effects. Planting too densely may mean more watering at first, until the root system has become established. In very damp corners, waterlogging can occur where heavy soil meets dense planting. A proper soil analysis beforehand can prevent problems.

In most home gardens, however, the advantages clearly outweigh the drawbacks: less weeding, improved soil structure, more flowers, more insects, and less bare soil that dries out. Combining ground covers with bulbs is especially effective. Crocuses, tulips or daffodils emerge through the foliage, flower early, and then hand the area back to the perennial carpet.

Anyone wanting to try the approach gradually can begin with a problem area in the garden: the bed that constantly needs weeding. Work it thoroughly once in March, plant ground covers and observe the development over one season. Often, the next area follows naturally – and your knees will stay noticeably cleaner in future.

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